Citroën A-Type Howto

Disclaimer: This page only provides advice, based on the personal opinion of the author. The author can't be held responsible for anything that results from following this advice.

General


Removing the fan

Removing the fan on 602 or less cc engines
Depending on your car:

For all cars:


Ignition

An ignition that has not been properly is the normal cause of problems such as:

Generally 75% of all problems with 2cvs are ignition related. Setting the ignition properly is a job that requires some experience. The only way to get experienced is by doing it.

Points:

Checks to see if the points are set correctly:

Sparkplugs:


Fuel system

Carburettor:

Click here to open a new window containing the double choke carburettor exploded view with numbered parts.

  1. steel fuel filter with plug an copper washer
  2. lid
  3. choke cable holder
  4. throttle damper lever (not always fitted)
  5. choke butterfly and shaft
  6. seal
  7. float needle valve with copper washer
  8. float
  9. idle mixture adjustment screw
  10. secondary main jet
  11. acceleration jet
  12. secondary air mixture jet
  13. primairy air mixture jet / emulsion tube
  14. plug
  15. throttle damper (not always fitted)
  16. primary main jet
  17. idle air mixture screw
  18. choke lever
  19. spring and ball for 18
  20. secondary butterfly lever
  21. idle rpm adjustment screw
  22. connecting rod
  23. primary butterfly lever
  24. stop rod for 17
  25. carburettor body
  26. idle jet
  27. acceleration pump
  28. primary butterfly and shaft
  29. secondary butterfly and shaft
  30. stop for primary butterfly shaft

Carburetor checking:

Idle adjustment:

Passing the technical test:

Removing the fuel tank:


Oil System

Oilcooler service

Filler tube


Electrics

75% of all electrical problems on a 2cv come from earthing. To check if earthing is the problem, take a wire with a crocodile mouth clamp on each end. Connect one end to the earth wire (or metal housing) of the thing that isn't working and one and to the - connection of the battery. If it works now (fiddle with the wires a bit) it's an earth problem.

Indicators:

Fuel gauge isn't working:

Either the connection near the front of the left inner wing is loose (from removing the rear bench) or you have bad earth. The earth wire runs from a connector of the fuel gauge sender to on of the rear bolts holding the tank. To check:


Checking and rebuilting the brakes

Honing of brake parts is done with a tripod with spring loaded moving arms with small stones on the ends. This device is fitted in an electric drill and used at high rpm.

When removing brake components, secure the brake pedal in a lower position, this keeps the brake system from leaking empty.

Some standard checks:

Rebuilting front brakes, discs front

Rebuilting front brakes, drums front

Rebuilting rear brakes

Removing the master cylinder

Rebuilting the master cylinder, dual circuit.

Rebuilting the master cylinder, single circuit.

Removing air from the system (bleeding)

Adjusting drum brakes (front and rear)

Adjusting the handbrake, drums front.

Adjusting the handbrake, discs front.


Trouble shooting

Starting or running troubles:

90% of the cases has to do with the ignition. Most of the time the timing is wrong or the points and or capacitor are bad.

The following parts should be in perfect condition:

With all these parts replaced any A-type should be a reliable starter at any time during any season.

What to check when the car won't start:

The engine will start but hickup (especially when revving) and not have much power (stall when trying to drive away).

Sticking brakes: